Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with bands of S-shapes and diamond-shapes

  • Literature notes

    Seven very narrow bands are set closely parallel to each other and at right angles to two further bands. All bands have an S-shape alternating with a very small diamond, defined by the ground fabric rather than the stitching. The embroidery colour is either blue or pink, alternating between the two from one band to the next. However, each pink band has a blue single line of running stitches as a border, while each blue band has the same in pink.

    The width of each band is 0.5 cm. A single line of brown running stitch is embroidered in a haphazard and apparently careless manner on a part of the ground fabric that is otherwise free from patterning. Along the length of the fabric there is a fine rolled hem.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    10th - 15th century AD
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with blue, pink, and brown silk; with a rolled hem in flax
    Dimensions
    20 x 10 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 20 / 20 threads/cm (thread count)
    embroidery bands 0.5 cm (width)
    ground fabric 0.03 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre flax
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.315
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    Seven very narrow bands are set closely parallel to each other and at right angles to two further bands. All bands have an S-shape alternating with a very small diamond, defined by the ground fabric rather than the stitching. The embroidery colour is either blue or pink, alternating between the two from one band to the next. However, each pink band has a blue single line of running stitches as a border, while each blue band has the same in pink.

    The width of each band is 0.5 cm. A single line of brown running stitch is embroidered in a haphazard and apparently careless manner on a part of the ground fabric that is otherwise free from patterning. Along the length of the fabric there is a fine rolled hem.
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