Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with S-shapes, rosettes, and chevrons

  • Literature notes

    A narrow band with S-shapes alternating with rosettes against a background of brown chevrons. There are fragmentary traces of a second band parallel to this one.

    The width of the band is 1.6 cm. There are traces of a selvedge at right angles to the band; the warp at the selvedge is very fine and may be silk. 2 mm from the edge it changes to flax set up with two picks, for a width of 1 cm, in order to strengthen the selvedge.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    10th - 15th century AD
    Material and technique
    linen, woven with double flax picks near edge and possibly silk warp at selvedge, and embroidered with brown silk
    Dimensions
    17 x 14 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 22 / 17 threads/cm (thread count)
    embroidery band 1.6 cm (width)
    two flax pick section 1 cm (width)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.03 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre flax,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.338
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A narrow band with S-shapes alternating with rosettes against a background of brown chevrons. There are fragmentary traces of a second band parallel to this one.

    The width of the band is 1.6 cm. There are traces of a selvedge at right angles to the band; the warp at the selvedge is very fine and may be silk. 2 mm from the edge it changes to flax set up with two picks, for a width of 1 cm, in order to strengthen the selvedge.
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