Ashmolean Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

The Social Importance of Textiles

'Moreover thou shalt make the tabernacle with ten curtains of fine twined linen, and blue, and purple, and scarlet: with cherubims of cunning work shalt thou make them.'

(Exodus, 26: 1)

The role of textiles goes far beyond a functional purpose. Dress and display fabrics are used to indicate status and rank. Patterns, techniques, and specific fibres can be associated with social, political or religious positions. They may be gender-specific or emphasise a cultural identity.

Textiles can separate sacred from profane space, and as priestly robes or bridal outfits they may emphasize a ceremonial role or state of transition.

In the past cloth making was a major industry generating wealth and prestige. Weavers’ guilds owned sumptuous houses, and in 15th-century Florence, a skilled weaver sometimes was paid more than a painter.

Child's coat with dragons and wave pattern (EA1965.84)   Child's suncoat with dragons and waves (EA1965.85)   Boy's cap with triangles and clusters (EA1984.123)

Child's tunic with bands of Y-shapes (EA1984.353)   Sampler fragment with chevrons, birds, and fish (EA1984.479)   Sampler fragment with diamond-shapes and chevrons (EA1984.495)

Boy's coat with floral pattern (EAX.2144)   Child's tunic with flowers (EAX.2235)